Fourteen restaurants Paris has been eating at since spring

None of these restaurants opened for Sunday. They have been serving the 1st, the 9th and the 11th since spring and early summer. Our team finally wrote them into the magazine this week: fourteen addresses, most on the Right Bank, all already part of the city’s daily life.

Start by the Louvre. Lotta is Charlotte Bereaud’s first restaurant, at 8 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau: two floors of travertine and Marcel Breuer chairs, designed with architect Juliette Rubel after Taschen’s Ingressi di Milano. Bereaud came from Prunier during the Alléno years and from the Crystal Room at Baccarat; chef Zoumana Meité keeps the Mediterranean board short — escabèche mussels, a reworked pissaladière, pasta and plates for sharing. The seat to ask for is upstairs, on the balcony. Next to the Dreamin’ Man roastery, Our House arranges ten pairs of chopsticks around a U-shaped counter and serves teishoku until the trays run out: karaage, mushroom rice, miso, pickles, chef Maki Fujii, lunch only, Tuesday to Saturday. Tora Tora arrived in Les Halles in the same sweep.

Pigalle took three. Test is an all-white restaurant with bonito in the window. Vivide and Comptoir d'Antan sit on the same hillside. Oberkampf took two that almost argue across a few metres of pavement: Trâmette, Priscilla Trâm’s hopscotch-tiled Vietnamese counter one door down from Trâm 130, and Acid Lactic. Writing for Le Fooding, Harry Gober described Trâmette as her new playground — stuffed tomato with sticky rice, pickled carrots and herbs, also served in a baguette with aioli, capers and Thai basil. Lunch returns on 1 September; summer evenings run from 18:30 to midnight.

Bastille got Toy, George Black’s ramen bar on Rue Saint-Nicolas after three years of pop-ups between New York, Tokyo and Paris. The bowls are built on smoked-eel dashi, or a vegetarian stock of white miso, mushrooms and coconut oil; Le Fooding called the pork-and-shrimp wonton a new Paris standard. Dessert is strawberry rice pudding, not mochi. Charonne got Locomal, Mokoloco with the letters kicked around, serving tamales where the canteen used to be.

Along the canal are Occasion and Le Canard Sauvage. Montorgueil has Kokomi; the Marais, Bittikesu. The list is long on purpose. Walk it rather than trying to book all of it. Localtime did not discover a new Paris this week. We caught up with the one that was already open and put these restaurants on the map, so you can find them by neighbourhood instead of by rumour.

Fourteen names is a proper haul. The Louvre balcony, the ten-seat lunch counter, the hopscotch tiles and the smoked-eel dashi are the four we would walk to first. The rest are in the index below. If you are already crossing the Right Bank this weekend, Rock en Seine is the other plan: Nick Cave on Friday, The Cure on Sunday. Jazz à La Villette opens the same night. Times and tickets are in this weekend’s guide.