South London bakeries, and a 300-seat restaurant in Olympia

The week in London split in two: flour, and restaurants too large to have been missing from the magazine.

@millykr’s latest posts filled the bakery half. TOAD Deptford is Rebecca Spaven and Oliver Costello’s Camberwell bakehouse grown up, on Deptford High Street since 9 July, with Nick Tudor’s sweet-chestnut racks facing the street so the loaves do not bottleneck. Krust is a Forest Hill morning café on Dartmouth Road with a photobook library behind the pastries, Wednesday to Sunday, still brand new when millykr filed it in July. Banook Bagels left a Peckham queue for a former pizza unit on East Dulwich Road. Rise & Fold put Japanese salt bread, yuzu-wasabi prawn rolls and chocolate miso cake into the Brunswick Centre off Russell Square. Then the wine-bar line: Lady of the Grapes in the Grade II Menier Chocolate Factory on Southwark Street, every bottle made by a woman, chef Matyáš Plzák on fried courgette flowers and Wiltshire lamb; Dorothy’s, Wendover’s all-day café at 41 Savile Row, named for Lady Dorothy Savile, marble and brioche and a cocktail called the Ray Dagg after the officer who tried to stop the Beatles on the roof across the street; Tempo under the Bethnal Green arches, Eric Wan’s first kitchen after the supper clubs.

The other half is catch-up, and it is bigger. Idalia occupies 300 seats on the ground floor of Olympia’s Grade II* Pillar Hall, the first restaurant inside the £1.3 billion rebuild. Executive chef Samantha Williams, formerly Angela Hartnett’s exec, and pastry chef Lorena Tommasi cook modern British with Asian and European twists — gochujang chicken, whole roasted turbot with shichimi butter, beef-tallow chips. Condé Nast Traveller had it in the May file. The name is an 1880s word for Aphrodite, written for a hall that once held Vivienne Westwood’s first catwalk and one of Britain’s earliest film screenings. Breakfast through last orders. English wine. Pink-crusted cocktail globes.

Taverna Ermou brought Athens to James Street. Café Jikoni looks onto the Waterworks River from V&A East. Bulbul is a former printing press on Tudor Street cooking regional Indian. Tangra is Soho Indo-Chinese from the Mildreds family, chef Nikesh Sawant, open since last November and only now on our list. The Golden Tooth is a pub on Green Lanes.

None of this opened between Monday and Sunday. It opened, and then Localtime wrote it down. That is the honest version of a catch-up week: the bakeries millykr had already eaten, the hall in Olympia that should have been in the magazine in March, a Soho restaurant that has been plating Hakka dishes since autumn. The index below is the full thirteen. Walk Deptford for flour. Walk Olympia if you want a restaurant that used to be a catwalk. This weekend is the bank holiday: All Points East closes in Victoria Park on Friday, and Notting Hill Carnival turns 60 on Sunday. The plan is in this weekend’s guide.